Lifting a 2004 Subaru Outback: Complete Tire, Suspension & Trim Guide
The 2004 Outback as a Lift Platform
The 2004 Subaru Outback (BP generation) is a capable platform for modest lifts. It comes with either a 2.5-liter 4-cylinder engine making 165 hp or an optional 3.0-liter 6-cylinder. The 4-cyl is lighter and easier on fuel, but the extra torque from the 6-cyl helps offset the power loss from heavier tires and drivetrain drag.
Trim Levels & Engine Choices
2004 Outbacks came in several trim levels ranging from base to Limited. The 3.0L H6 engine was available on higher-end trims like the H6-3.0 L.L. Bean and H6-3.0 35th Anniversary editions. If you’re starting with a base or Limited 2.5L model, upgrading to a 6-cyl later is possible but expensive. Know what you have before committing to heavy tires.
Lift Kit Options
Two main approaches exist for lifting a 2004 Outback: spacer lifts and spring lifts.
- Spacer lifts: Install on top of your existing struts, giving 1–2 inches of height. Cheaper and easier for DIY installation. The trade-off is that tall spacers (1.25 inches or more) can push your CV axles beyond their intended range, causing premature wear.
- Spring lifts: Use stiffer lift springs paired with new struts. King Springs lift springs are one option, though they must be ordered from Australia and require upper spring seats sourced from Impreza or Forester. This method is kinder to your drivetrain but requires more work.
For most owners, a modest 1–2 inch spacer lift combined with upgraded shocks is the practical sweet spot.
Suspension: Struts and Shocks
The 2004 Outback uses a strut-based independent suspension front and rear. KYB GR-2 struts are the standard replacement that won’t lower your car. If you’re replacing struts anyway—which you’ll likely do if adding a spacer lift—pair them with quality dampers. Avoid using Bilstein struts meant for the Legacy, as they’ll actually drop your ride height.
Tire and Wheel Sizing
Stock 2004 Outbacks come on 16-inch steel wheels or 17-inch alloys. For a lifted setup, you have options:
- 15-inch wheels: Allow bigger tires and a more rugged look. Only rally-style wheels (like Method race wheels) clear the struts reliably. This is the aggressive choice.
- 16-inch and 17-inch wheels: Work fine with modest lifts. You can fit 225/70R16 or similar sizes without significant rubbing.
For all-terrain tires in Australian conditions, the BF Goodrich KO2 is a heavyweight option—excellent for serious off-road use but heavy enough to hurt fuel economy and power on a 4-cylinder. The Yokohama Geolandar G015 or Falken Wildpeak A/T Trail are better-balanced mid-weight choices that don’t punish performance as much. The Geolandar is especially popular in Australia for independent-suspension light SUVs.
Australian Modification Rules
Before you lift, check your state’s regulations. Lift limits vary:
- NSW: Maximum 75mm total (25mm from tyres, 50mm from suspension) without certification.
- Queensland: Maximum 50mm without certification; 50–75mm requires licensing.
- Victoria: Maximum 50mm without approval.
- Western Australia: Maximum 50mm total without certification.
- Northern Territory: Most generous—up to 100mm without certification.
Any change over 50mm may require certification by a licensed vehicle certifier, depending on state rules. Get it in writing from your local transport authority before you start, or risk registration issues later.
Planning Your Build
Most owners lift 1–2 inches using spacer kits, then fit 225/70R16 or 225/75R16 all-terrain tires. This combination sits comfortably within most state limits, doesn’t tax a 4-cylinder engine too badly, and keeps CV axle stress reasonable. If you own a 3.0L, you have more breathing room for heavier rubber and bigger lifts. Plan the whole package—tires, suspension, wheels, height—before you buy parts. Mixing and matching haphazardly is where costs spiral and problems emerge.